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Pretty in Pearls

FROM GREEK MYTHOLOGY TO GRACE KELLY'S WEDDING GIFT: AN OVERVIEW OF PEARLS ON AND OFF OF THE RUNWAY


On May 5th, the Met Gala took place. The theme was Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, looks were rich in material and extravagance. Co-Chair and singer Pharell was seen in a double-breasted jacket, classic white shirt, and black dress pants. Upon closer examination, his blazer was adorned in fifteen thousand individually stitched pearls. It took over four hundred hours to create. While brooches and metallic pieces were seen on the runway of Fall 2025 collections, pearls will likely make a comeback due to Pharell’s influence. 


Today’s article will examine the pearl on the runway, its history, and from a pop culture perspective.


In June 2024, Giorgio Armani’s Privé debuted its Fall/Winter collection. Various looks showcased power suits and pearls.


Similarly, Karl Lagerfeld was no stranger to utilizing Coco Chanel’s signature accessory when he was creative director. In simplest terms, Lagerfeld assisted with the revival of the brand. Essentially, Lagerfeld was brought into Chanel to develop new looks and styles, but not to alienate long-time customers. Lagerfeld did just that. By “1985, the newspaper wrote that Lagerfeld “succeeded in bringing the Chanel image into the modern age.”




Pearls are rich in history and are used as an emblem in many cultures. Pearls are symbols associated with the moon, wisdom, purity, water, and love. In Greek Mythology, it was believed that pearls were tears of joy shed by the Goddess of Love, Aphrodite.


However, pearls are also a symbol of colonialism. During the time of European exploration and colonization, they were seen as a prize and symbol of wealth. In the 16th century, Spanish colonials abused Indigenous inhabitants and forced them to dive for pearls.



Pearls have been seen countless times in history and pop culture. In 1961, Pearls saw their peak due to the iconic film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Audrey Hepburn’s character, Holly Golightly, is dressed in a black dress, gloves, and pearls as she looks at Tiffany’s jewelry through the shop window. In addition, “Princess Diana was often seen wearing pearl jewelry to official engagements, even sporting a pearl choker with her legendary revenge dress (which inspired Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2024 collection titled “Le Chou Chou,” an homage to the late princess)." 


Carrie Bradshaw paired a casual pink shirt with a roped pearl necklace. This look sparked roped pearl necklaces to become mainstream, “ Jewelry brands quickly followed suit, launching pearl ropes that became must-haves for modern women.”


In recent years, Vivienne Westwood’s pearl choker was an accessory of choice for Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa in 2021. Simone Rocha S/S’20 collection showcased an egg bag with a pearl strap. This purse is a unique choice for those wanting to make a statement.


While pearls have historically been a women’s accessory, in 2021, Comme de Garçoncollaborated with “Mikimoto Pearls, this collaboration which brings spikes, studs, and silver hardware into the two brands’. 



The figures below show an increase in people searching for pearl necklaces over the last three months.

From family heirlooms to iconic runways, pearls’ timeless beauty evoke a sense of nostalgia. As I’ve previously written, “Nostalgia and fashion intertwine extensively. Revisiting past trends can give a sense of consistency in a world full of uncertainty.” While one can argue that fashion is cyclical, jewelry trends can be too. Pearls will likely remain iconic despite their original suppressed history. 


BY EMILY GLASS

Imagery by Rebecca Doyle



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